Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Four Cheesy Pieces

It's fascinating to compare the differing views of the international media as they bang off Taiwan's many realities.....

From Peter Enav of AP writing in the Bangkok Post:

Tung Chen-yuan, an official in the Mainland Affairs Council, a cabinet-level body responsible for Taiwan's China policy, said the group's polls show that 70 percent of people in Taiwan reject the ''one country, two systems'' formula for Taiwan.

''The Hong Kong experience is a total failure,'' Mr Tung said. ''People on Taiwan know this.''

The same is said by Taiwan's political parties, who rarely agree on anything.

''People in Taiwan have much more freedom and political rights than in Hong Kong,'' said Hsiao Bi-khim, a lawmaker with the ruling Democratic Progressive Party.

Su Chi, a lawmaker with the Nationalists, the biggest opposition party, agreed. ''Politically we feel that the Hong Kong model is not applicable to Taiwan. Hong Kong was never the master of its own land. It was a British colony. For us, it's a totally different situation.''


But wait. Our democracy is in disarray and people are nostalgic for the good old days of political killings, wholesale looting of the island's financial institutions, and suppression of human rights, according to Julian Buam, formerly of the Far Eastern Economic Review, in an opinion piece for Yahoo News:

Hopes for political and constitutional reform were high in 2000 when the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP), led by President Chen Shui-bian, ended the abusive, 55-year rule of the Chinese Nationalist Party. But those hopes have been dashed amid seven years of divided, deadlocked government. Budgets are often delayed or canceled. Almost no bills have passed. Rules are twisted for partisan advantage. Corruption in high places is rampant. The result is a serious crisis of governance that has depressed popular support for representative government and deepened cynicism. Opinion surveys by East Asia Barometer show that the Taiwanese have the lowest level of belief in the superiority of democracy in East Asia and unusually high nostalgia for the efficiency of authoritarian rule.

Authoritarian rule more efficient than democracy? I hope Baum only refers to the alleged beliefs of the local public, and doesn't really believe that nonsense. Check out the East Asia Barometer's scholars here -- if you guessed that they are a bunch of political conservatives, you bet right. He adds that:

Meanwhile, factionalism and lack of commitment to public service have greatly weakened Mr. Chen's administration. The high turnover of cabinet ministers has made continuity in office only a happy memory of the Nationalists' dictatorship.

Yes, once again, the happy memories of Nationalist dictatorship....because you know how committed to public service the KMT leadership was in the good old days. I dream of the op-ed piece that mentions which side is primarily responsible for the lack of governance here -- paralyzing the government is one of the strategies of the pro-China parties. Baum then goes on in the same reality-free style to refer to a paper I reviewed on this blog a while back:

"For the great majority of Taiwan's electorate, the mechanisms of democratic accountability have failed," wrote political scientist Chu Yun-han of Taiwan's Academia Sinica in a recent paper.

He further concluded that the erosion of democratic legitimacy has large implications for China itself, where liberal intellectuals and senior leaders closely follow Taiwan's affairs. If Taiwan's democracy founders, it would discourage reformers in China who look to Taiwan to demonstrate the advantages of an open and competitive political system.


What does reality say? Read my review, but as I noted:

Just last week a prominent Singaporean democracy supporter publicly chastised Ma Ying-jeou for his approving stance on authoritarianism in Singapore, observing:

I am sure that the people of Taiwan cherish their hard-won political freedom and are proud to live in a democratic society, a society that they contribute towards and continue to shape. In fact, in many ways democracy advocates in Singapore draw inspiration from Taiwan in its transformation from martial law to a bona fide democracy.

If Taiwan's messy democracy is a failure, then the news has failed to reach those Chinese societies that Chu alleges would be most put off by it.

Chu's piece is poor, and it is sad to see Baum recycling it. Meanwhile Peter Enav observes:

Although many Hong Kongers envy the Taiwanese voters' freedom to choose their own leaders, they're also dismayed by the often messy and chaotic young democracy. Fistfights are common in Taiwan's legislature, and each election involves allegations of rampant vote-buying and ballot fraud.

The island's president, Chen Shui-bian, is also commonly viewed in Hong Kong as being an erratic hothead who unnecessarily provokes Beijing.

Hong Kong media mogul Jimmy Lai, who owns a mass-market newspaper and magazine in Taiwan, said Taiwan was better off than Hong Kong _ even if the Taiwanese president _ who finishes his final term next year _ is a disappointment.

''Taiwan at least has hope for a new leader in 2008,'' Mr Lai said. ''If we had a poor leader today, when will we get a new one?'' AP

Those nutty Hong Kongers, envying our democracy when they should be enjoying the efficiency of authoritarian rule! Silly people....

Meanwhile, in case you haven't noticed, there's an election going on. The International Herald Tribune hosts a rather rambling opinion piece by Philip Bowring on the upcoming elections. Bowring takes the conventional line that Ma is the favorite, but offers some fair analysis of the actual situation:

But it may not be that simple. Hsieh is a canny operator with a reputation for effective administration, and Ma's control of his own party is weak.

In principle, the central divide in Taiwan politics remains attitudes to the mainland, with Chen Shui-bian's Democratic Progressive Party being associated with Taiwan independence and the Kuomintang with eventual reunification with the mainland.

In reality, however, there are several shades of opinion on economic integration that are reflected in both main parties. The electoral battleground is firmly in the center.


Western media reps, working with western ideas of how bodies politic are structured, just don't get what our Center is here. As the election goes along and reaches its climax, both sides will make moves, not to grab the center, but to shore up and expand their base. Meanwhile our public is nostalgic for the good old days of authoritarian rule, according to Julian Baum, but somehow Bowring managed to miss that:

In reality the economy has not performed badly, but could have done much better. It has fallen behind South Korea. There is a perception of stasis, to which Chen has contributed by his obsession with identity issues, and the KMT had added through its obstructionism in the legislature and defense of vested interests. Democracy may be strong, but standards of governance have suffered from political infighting, corruption and indecision.

Baum says our democracy is weak and a bad example to China, Bowring says its strong. Hey, you say tomato, I say fan chieh....and of course, no media opinion piece can be complete with mention of that awful Chen Shui-bian, "obsessed" with identity issues, poor guy [insert doleful shake of head here]. In this media world it could never be imagined that Chen is often viewed by independence supporters as cynically manipulating the issue for his own political gain -- never mind that identity is even more crucial for maintenance of the KMT's core base. I yearn for the media writer who understands that the idealized Chinese identity of the KMT is even more a construction than the Taiwanese one of the DPP.

But don't be too discouraged. At least some in the foreign media are willing to print criticisms of themselves. An AsiaMedia opinion piece records:

Wu, in his public talk, said that some of Taiwan's problems are related to the foreign media which tends to portray Taiwan as unstable, a place where brawls occur within its parliament. "The international press does not cover the more positive aspects of Taiwan," he said.

There may be some truth to this, but it is also true that many reporters and others in the West have a soft spot for Taiwan and want to support the underdog in its David versus Goliath struggle with China. But they also recognize the realities of power politics and the dangers of pursing a confrontational strategy.

Focus on the negative might also reflect genuine problems in Taiwan: corruption and slowing rates of economic growth in recent years, to name two.


The KMT has been very successful in getting foreign media reps to write, as if by free association, the term corruption whenever they write about the current situation in Taiwan. There's certainly plenty of corruption to go around but.... I don't want to make anyone's head explode, but lots of media reps out there need reminding that the current government is by far the cleanest in the island's history. I used to think that goes without saying which party is blocking the proposals on sunshine laws, and cleaning up the farm associations, and....but I think it needs to be said more and more, until someone out there actually listens.



Monday, July 02, 2007

Yungho and Yangmingshan

A dragonfly rests on our clothesline.

Friday the news reached our household that my mother in law took a bad fall and hit her head on a bit of wall that slashed across the local sidewalks, a bit of wall that I've been stepping over for 18 years. We zoomed up to Yungho outside of Taipei to make sure she was OK, but fortunately she was only mildly concussed and bruised. Could have been a lot worse.

With mom safe and sound, we headed over to one of my favorite places on the island, this night market in Yungho, where my wife and first started dating, which I think occurred sometime in the late Yuan Dynasty. Is marriage really forever, or does it just feel that way?

I've never lost my love of night markets, and judging from the crowds, neither have the locals.

Shoppers throng the sidewalks. Taiwan is so sluggish by day, and so vital by night.

The next morning I grabbed the camera and took a walk. Construction workers hard at work next door. You can forget about afternoon naps when they are refurbishing the house next door.

Look! Law enforcement! Living in Taichung I wouldn't know very much about that.

One of Yungho's most interesting streets is this one right next to the Dingxi Metro stop. There's a Starbucks at one end, and all along it, wholesalers of Korean clothing.

Yungho also offers some of the finest alleys in a city full of them.

Someday, my Taipei alley book will sweep the world.

All over Yungho, thousands of vendors are busy readying for the lunch and dinner customers.

Originally we had evolved a grandiose plan to go camping on Yangmingshan and attend a geocaching event with the Bushman and his lovely new wife. Unfortunately we were in such a rush to get out on Friday that we forgot everything. When I got back on Monday I found the gods of karma had extracted their revenge for our forgetfulness: our cat had trashed the house since we also forgot to close all the doors.

The geocache event organizers had left some new caches on Yangmingshan for us to find. The first geocache was hidden near this geothermal field on Yangmingshan. Michael's tale is here.

Hibiscus, a local weed.

The desolate wastes of the fumoroles and vents. Yangmingshan is a group of volcanoes whose salad days lie 300,000 years in the past. Is it dead? Scientists aren't entirely sure:

True that the Tatun volcanoes have been extinct for a very long time, but by virtue of new research findings, the possibility of periodic re-eruptions can be no longer ruled out. First of all, such geothermal activities as hot springs and gas fumaroles are certainly still very wide-spread on the surface (Chen and Wu 1971). Added to this, the volcanic evolutionary history of Taiwan shows the Tatun volcanoes could be reactivated simply on the grounds that two major eruptions have occurred in the past few million years. Finally, recent geochemical analyses of fumarole gas further show that the Helium isotopic ratios are very high (Yang 2000), indicating some magma chambers might still exist beneath the Tatun volcanoes. Such geological and geochemical observations as these suggest that active magma chambers probably lie beneath the volcano group (Song et al. 2000b).
Brrrr......

After a few minutes diligent search, we discovered the cache. We left our names and a trinket, as the rules demand.

My wife poses in the brutal morning sun.

Seems like everyone was hunting for some shade.

Nothing like the smell of hydrogen sulfide to improve the atmosphere of the local card game.

Because no place is too remote or too dangerous to have concrete slathered all over it.

Old accumulations of minerals line a path.

A shrine to the earth god.

At 350 meters altitude, the day was too hot and hazy to see Taipei very clearly, even though it was only a few kilometers away.

Yangmingshan is covered with spas and baths.

A mountain road.

There are 200 Starbucks on the island, and Taipei hosts over 150 of them.

Steam vents line the roads up the mountains.

It's three klicks as the crow flies, but fifteen if you drive.

At 700 meters the fog blotted out the views.

Fog obscured even nearby peaks.

Another cache was concealed near the famous Milk Lake. Here people park to walk several of the excellent hiking trails that work their way up the steep mountain slopes. Me, I love mountain climbing. I could watch it all day long.

Insect PDA.

In the cool shade visitors napped, meditated, and chatted the afternoon away.

Beautiful views in every direction.

Chemical runoff from the hot springs has stained this lake white, hence the name.

This guy posed patiently for me no matter how close I got.

I've always considered these treeless slopes to be strikingly beautiful.

As we snacked at the visitors center, another staple of Taiwan's scenic areas arrived.

After we located the second cache, we headed over to Tienmu to meet the Taiwan geocachers here in this gated community outside of Tienmu.

The geocachers catch a breather before heading out for dinner. In the center (yellow) is the redoubtable RJT, the organizer of this year's geocaching event, Taiwan Geocaching Woodstock II. They were a great, close-knit bunch.

Many of the homes here are quite retro.

Our delicious dinner, including that Yangmingshan specialty, little mantou, small steamed buns. They are totally different from normal large steamed buns because they are....smaller. No doubt they are a specialty of the mountain area because so much wheat is grown on Yangmingshan....not.

Night, and my wife and I out on a date to the night market in Yungho. Here a vendor offers puppies for sale.

All is movement around the saxophone.

What will you have?

BBQed prawns.

Everything's colorful in a Taiwan night market.

And the crowds wander along, everyone unable to decide what to eat.

Su Beng

Reuters reporter Ralph Jennings has a wonderful article on Su Beng, the communist who became a leading advocate of independence for Taiwan:

Su, the nom-de-guerre for the man born as Shih Chao-hui, was anti-Japanese for much of his formative years, opposing Japan's colonial control of Taiwan during his time as a Waseda University student in Tokyo and later in China from 1942 to 1949.

Disheartened by what he describes as cruelty among the Communists, he returned to Taiwan shortly before the Communist victory, going back and forth between Taiwan and Japan since.

Shortly after his initial return to Taiwan, he fought Chiang Kai-shek's authoritarian rule by stockpiling old Japanese weapons, leading to charges that he was plotting to assassinate the late strongman.

He escaped the government's fury by stowing away in 1952 on a banana boat to Japan, where he persuaded authorities to let him live in exile. Su became a legend there by opening a noodle restaurant that trained revolutionaries on its fifth floor.

During his 40 years in Japan, he illegally entered Taiwan several times to try to destabilize the Nationalists and promote Taiwan independence. He returned to stay in 1993, and since then he has organized motorcades of slogan-painted taxis on weekends and started a foundation to promote his history books.

Looking forward to reading Felicia's biography of Su in a couple of years...

China Times Polls says Hsieh-Su ahead of Ma-Siew

Feiren alerted me to a new poll in the pro-KMT China Times today purporting to show that a Hsieh-Su ticket is narrowly ahead of a Ma-Siew ticket. As a Blue poll, it has to be taken with a grain of salt, but it does show what an excellent candidate Hsieh is. In 2004 nobody thought Chen would win, but as the election drew near Chen made up lots of ground, moving into a tie more than two weeks prior to the election. A big "recovery" in the final weeks is the norm among the DPP candidates, so if that pattern holds, Hsieh may well win. I suspect that a serious scientific poll would put Hsieh + any reasonable Veep out in front of Ma-Siew at this time. The China Times says of Veep picks:

根據中時電子報最新的電訪民意調查顯示,在民進黨內部熱門副手人選中,有四成五四的受訪者支持蘇貞昌,二成三一支持葉菊蘭,二成○四支持蔡英文,另有一成一的受訪者,希望從非政界人士中選出副手人選。如果明天就是大選日,民進黨的「謝蘇配」則是以高過百分之○.八,險勝國民黨的「馬蕭配」。

According to the most recent online China Times telephone survey, among the hot names for the DPP vice presidential candidate, 45% support Su, 23% support Yeh Chu-lan, and 20% support Tsai Ing-wen. 11% say the want a veep who is not a politician. If the election were held tomorrow, Hsieh-Su would beat Ma-Siew by 0.8 points.

Good news for us.



Sunday, July 01, 2007

National Palace Museum Digitizing Collection

From last month comes this story of the digitization of the National Palace Museum's immense collection of loot Chinese Art treasures, done on Linux.

The goal is to make the massive collection available on the Internet. Researchers will be able to find rare documents in an easy-to-use database, teachers will be able to download information and images they can use in course work, and visitors will enjoy vivid exhibitions, films, music, access to favorite works of art and virtual tours.

"The culture effect is more important than the technology. We're trying to give people a warm feeling about these artifacts. We want the human touch," said James Lin, director of the information management center at the National Palace Museum in Taipei.

The initiative is part of Taiwan's government-funded National Digital Archives program and it aims to do for the treasures of China what was first done in 1925 -- open them to the world. This time, however, it will display the museum's treasures on a far grander scale. When the last Emperor of China was deposed in 1925, part of his Forbidden City was turned into a museum so the public could view the treasures collected there. It was meant to signify the turn to a republican government, in which all took part and no single person held special privilege over the artifacts.

Enjoy! Politics, technology, something for everyone.