Showing posts with label night markets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label night markets. Show all posts

Thursday, September 05, 2013

Wild East: Who Killed Shida?

Trista over at The Wild East has a great piece on the destruction of the Shi Da night market area, one of the city's great shopping and eating spaces. She interviews a restaurant owner who describes how the alleged complaints about the night market appear to be from ringers...
As it turns out –- and this information comes from long-time ShiDa residents – most of these ‘neighbors’, the newly outraged residents of a once-bustling night market area, only moved to ShiDa “within the last 2 or 3 years.”
The campaign has been ongoing (here). This China Post tale from last year says local residents had organized a "self-help association" which made trouble for the local restaurants (here). Many of us had suspected the attack on the famed and beloved food and shopping mecca was orchestrated by land developers in cahoots with local government. Note again the pious yet selective application of the law which has become a common feature of so many of these cases.
According to a city ordinance, restaurants are not allowed within a radius of 8 meters from residential buildings.

“There are probably more than 10,000 restaurants located within a radius of 8 meters from residential buildings in the city,” a restaurateur, who spoke on condition of anonymity, complained.
The city could be going after thousands upon thousands of restaurants in Taipei, but it chose these in the market. The area is on prime land for development, near two major universities and key metro stops. The government's cooperation with the "self-help association" was pointed out by the redoubtable Oz in a post last year, in which he noted that the ShiDa Night Market signs had been removed from metro stops in the area. That post has plenty more information, including the fact that the markets there generate US$400 million in revenues each year....

The move also seems to be a part of the "upgrading" that has swept away so many of Taipei's traditional markets and landmarks.
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Tuesday, December 01, 2009

Hwashi Street and Wanhua

Another day, another enthusiastic response to my lectures from my students. Despite their high energy, I left them on Friday afternoon and headed into Taipei to overnight for another bike trip over the Northern Cross-Island Highway.

My son takes in a motorcycle accident near Longshan Temple and Huashi Street

We had decided to stay on Huashi Street (華西街) in Wanhua and toss the bikes on the Longshan Metro in the morning. Huashi Street in Taipei is one of the most famous tourist areas in the city, a step away from the Longshan Temple. Formerly a red-light district -- plenty of that still goes on -- the area is being remade as a "tourist attraction" with a "tourist night market." Ugh. But there are lots of good photo-ops in the markets around the area.

A vendor moves her cart as the night markets are set up in the late afternoon.

Like all of Taipei, retailing is a big business in the area.

We got a spartan room for 5 for just $2000 at a historic old hostel....here my son searches for a plug. The room was an excellent deal in an interesting area, and came equipped with all the basic amenities -- toothbrushes, hair dryers, big towels -- in an old building crammed with tiny rooms, twisty hallways, and the accumulated stuff of half a lifetime. They also had a place to put the bikes. Definitely recommended.

...the 古山園旅社, (萬華區華西街40巷16號1-3樓). Apparently it used to be one of the places that housed legal prostitutes in the good old days. "Illegal" prostitution still thrives in the area, and walking around the alleys around Huashi Street one can see many streetwalkers plying their trade, and be accosted by any number of madames with their girls in tow.

In the Tourist Night Market the vendors were busy setting up in the late afternoon.

As tables waited silently for customers.

Santa, caged.

Wanhua is an old district of Taipei and if you walk around, there are many older buildings hiding in plain sight, like the brick structure on the right.

The city has put in the pavement and lights that signal that the area is an "old district". One distressing aspect of Taiwanese tourist presentation is that it obliterates what is old and unique and replaces it with a kind of kitsch approach whose purpose is to present a generic image of what "historical" is expected to look like to tourists -- rather than reconstruction or preservation.

A common sight on Taiwan streets: things hanging.

Mom was trying to get him to say hello, while the other kids helpfully categorized me as a foreigner, in case I wasn't aware of that.

A veggie stand in the area.

In front of a local temple, dinner.

My friend Jeff, always interested in architecture, inspects some unusual round pillars.

We also stopped by the famous Longshan Temple, next to the metro stop of the same name.

The temple was packed, as always.

Unusual figures hold up the roof of the incense burner.

As night fell, the market rose.

Eager snackers sample the abundance of the night market around Huashi Street.

More than enough for the hungriest night market shopper.

Fish heads, anyone?

A drinks vendor.

Diners enjoy good food and conversation.

The covered night market where you can find the snake blood for sale. Twenty years ago this was a much more interesting experience; now the city has cast a dull sameness across the market, since in local thinking, sameness equates to orderliness.

The endless crowds slither through the jungle of signs and stands.

Nuts steaming on a cool fall evening.

And in the morning, there were mountains.
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Monday, July 02, 2007

Yungho and Yangmingshan

A dragonfly rests on our clothesline.

Friday the news reached our household that my mother in law took a bad fall and hit her head on a bit of wall that slashed across the local sidewalks, a bit of wall that I've been stepping over for 18 years. We zoomed up to Yungho outside of Taipei to make sure she was OK, but fortunately she was only mildly concussed and bruised. Could have been a lot worse.

With mom safe and sound, we headed over to one of my favorite places on the island, this night market in Yungho, where my wife and first started dating, which I think occurred sometime in the late Yuan Dynasty. Is marriage really forever, or does it just feel that way?

I've never lost my love of night markets, and judging from the crowds, neither have the locals.

Shoppers throng the sidewalks. Taiwan is so sluggish by day, and so vital by night.

The next morning I grabbed the camera and took a walk. Construction workers hard at work next door. You can forget about afternoon naps when they are refurbishing the house next door.

Look! Law enforcement! Living in Taichung I wouldn't know very much about that.

One of Yungho's most interesting streets is this one right next to the Dingxi Metro stop. There's a Starbucks at one end, and all along it, wholesalers of Korean clothing.

Yungho also offers some of the finest alleys in a city full of them.

Someday, my Taipei alley book will sweep the world.

All over Yungho, thousands of vendors are busy readying for the lunch and dinner customers.

Originally we had evolved a grandiose plan to go camping on Yangmingshan and attend a geocaching event with the Bushman and his lovely new wife. Unfortunately we were in such a rush to get out on Friday that we forgot everything. When I got back on Monday I found the gods of karma had extracted their revenge for our forgetfulness: our cat had trashed the house since we also forgot to close all the doors.

The geocache event organizers had left some new caches on Yangmingshan for us to find. The first geocache was hidden near this geothermal field on Yangmingshan. Michael's tale is here.

Hibiscus, a local weed.

The desolate wastes of the fumoroles and vents. Yangmingshan is a group of volcanoes whose salad days lie 300,000 years in the past. Is it dead? Scientists aren't entirely sure:

True that the Tatun volcanoes have been extinct for a very long time, but by virtue of new research findings, the possibility of periodic re-eruptions can be no longer ruled out. First of all, such geothermal activities as hot springs and gas fumaroles are certainly still very wide-spread on the surface (Chen and Wu 1971). Added to this, the volcanic evolutionary history of Taiwan shows the Tatun volcanoes could be reactivated simply on the grounds that two major eruptions have occurred in the past few million years. Finally, recent geochemical analyses of fumarole gas further show that the Helium isotopic ratios are very high (Yang 2000), indicating some magma chambers might still exist beneath the Tatun volcanoes. Such geological and geochemical observations as these suggest that active magma chambers probably lie beneath the volcano group (Song et al. 2000b).
Brrrr......

After a few minutes diligent search, we discovered the cache. We left our names and a trinket, as the rules demand.

My wife poses in the brutal morning sun.

Seems like everyone was hunting for some shade.

Nothing like the smell of hydrogen sulfide to improve the atmosphere of the local card game.

Because no place is too remote or too dangerous to have concrete slathered all over it.

Old accumulations of minerals line a path.

A shrine to the earth god.

At 350 meters altitude, the day was too hot and hazy to see Taipei very clearly, even though it was only a few kilometers away.

Yangmingshan is covered with spas and baths.

A mountain road.

There are 200 Starbucks on the island, and Taipei hosts over 150 of them.

Steam vents line the roads up the mountains.

It's three klicks as the crow flies, but fifteen if you drive.

At 700 meters the fog blotted out the views.

Fog obscured even nearby peaks.

Another cache was concealed near the famous Milk Lake. Here people park to walk several of the excellent hiking trails that work their way up the steep mountain slopes. Me, I love mountain climbing. I could watch it all day long.

Insect PDA.

In the cool shade visitors napped, meditated, and chatted the afternoon away.

Beautiful views in every direction.

Chemical runoff from the hot springs has stained this lake white, hence the name.

This guy posed patiently for me no matter how close I got.

I've always considered these treeless slopes to be strikingly beautiful.

As we snacked at the visitors center, another staple of Taiwan's scenic areas arrived.

After we located the second cache, we headed over to Tienmu to meet the Taiwan geocachers here in this gated community outside of Tienmu.

The geocachers catch a breather before heading out for dinner. In the center (yellow) is the redoubtable RJT, the organizer of this year's geocaching event, Taiwan Geocaching Woodstock II. They were a great, close-knit bunch.

Many of the homes here are quite retro.

Our delicious dinner, including that Yangmingshan specialty, little mantou, small steamed buns. They are totally different from normal large steamed buns because they are....smaller. No doubt they are a specialty of the mountain area because so much wheat is grown on Yangmingshan....not.

Night, and my wife and I out on a date to the night market in Yungho. Here a vendor offers puppies for sale.

All is movement around the saxophone.

What will you have?

BBQed prawns.

Everything's colorful in a Taiwan night market.

And the crowds wander along, everyone unable to decide what to eat.