Tuesday, April 04, 2006

Hiking With the Fourth Grade Class


Waiting to go.

My daughter's headmaster is a forward-thinking and energetic fellow who comes out of a Boy Scout background. Given all the wonderful places to hike in the neighborhood, it is no surprise that every semester he has the school take a hike somewhere.

Since I had Tuesday off, and my wife was acting as a volunteer, so I accompanied the school on its excursion


Dan-dan looks around.

This semester we went up to the bamboo-clad hillsides to the north of the school. Bamboo from this area is famous all over the island, and the road was lined with farmers hard at work caring for their saplings.


Do the students worship my wife?, No, they just enjoy that favorite activity of small boys the world over, sadistic torture-murders of helpless bugs.


Those of you wanting to know more about socialization of authority relationships at the primary school level might ponder this scene of a speech made to the students using a microphone, from a teacher on a platform with a defined spatial separation from the students -- in the shade, while the kids are in the sun. In Taiwan speakers trained solely in the local speech mode do not step out into their audience to speak.


Who could resist going when you got this nifty button as the prize?

And they're off!


We walked along a creek/ditch/sewer for most of the trip.




No matter how "rural the area" it will be packed with small factories and machine shops.




My son, growing by leaps and bounds, stands out in the crowd.


The bamboo trees lent an authentic atmosphere, but provided no shade.


The obligatory spider shot. I love the sumptuous colors of these spiders.


That's Tanzi in the distance there.



My wife with my daughter's best friend.







Why is Snoopy taped to the telephone pole? I have no idea.....




My wife exchanges views with my daughter's teacher.


We met in a parking lot where another hiking trail begins. The principal had organized activities for the kids.





Our principal. I'd say some more laudatory stuff, but I'm too jealous of his Nikon D70.

Juying mans a table.


Posing by the sign.


My son spotted this one for me, a tiny little hunter scurrying across the sign above.


Kids line up for activities.


Another hunter comes to a bad end in the road.


What is it? A creek? A sewer? The destruction of the island's watercourses is one its saddest aspects.



Impromptu garbage dumps, a common sight along back roads.




The community bulletin board is taken up with signs not to drink, gamble, or steal, that date back decades. This one warns that come home late and drunk will impact your relationship with the wife, and be a bad model for the kids.

We arrived back at the school after more than three hours on the road. I took the principal aside and told him how much we liked the activity, and how we looked forward to more.

Jeff Martin's Presentation on the Police -- Swenson's Breakfast Club



The Swenson's Breakfast Club/Meet Up this month featured the usual suspects, plus many new faces. Attendance appears to be on the increase. Great fun was had by all, and we managed to learn something too.

The highlight of the morning was Jeff Martin, a newly-minted PHD fresh from the University of Chicago's Department of Anthropology, who gave a talk on Taiwan's police. Jeff's talk was sympathetic, informative, detailed, funny, and useful, setting a standard for any future presentations that will be difficult to match.

One of the great things about the presentation wasn't just the high quality of Jeff's work and the accessible way he presented it, but also the fact that audience consisted of people who all knew quite a bit about Taiwan. It was a privilege to sit in with so many well-informed and experienced Taiwan expats, all talking to each other about topics of vital importance to our experience of the Beautiful Isle.

Jeff was introduced by Linda Arrigo. She observed that he had done fieldwork on how the police function in Taiwan by "spending three years drinking with them," coming back from the torturous and ever-changing world out there with a shipload of information that no one else understood. The police have two systems, Linda said -- the official system, and "the other one." It was our happy lot to listen to Jeff clarify both for us.

Jeff began with two simple questions: what do the police do? And why do they do it? It turned out that Jeff had to answer a third question: just who are the police?

According to Jeff, the transition from martial law to democracy has left no impression on the police. Why? Because Jeff was talking to the civil police, whose job description didn't change. Rather, martial law changed policing by "extracting the military from police work." The content of police work, from a formal perspective, has not changed dramatically from the end of martial law, and is based on the police law of 1953, amended slightly in 1986. "There's no smoking gun policy that shows that policing has become democratic whereas it used to be authoritarian," Jeff observed.

At this point Linda Arrigo remarked that it was still fairly authoritarian. True, Jeff answered, responding that what has actually changed was that the legitimacy of civil institutions is based on their upholding of civil rights in a democratic system -- the basis of legitimacy, the "hegemonic rhetoric" that underpins the system, has changed.

Who are the police? This is the central question to understanding what has changed since martial law ended. The police, formally defined, are those people who work for the Central Police Administration of the Ministry of the Interior, created in 1972, some 80,000 souls. Jeff briefly listed the twenty or thirty police organizations, maritime, border, railroad, and so on. The key distinction, Jeff argued, is threefold: between the judicial police, administrative police, and the staff who process paperwork.

This is the Continental system of criminal justice, profoundly different from the Anglo-Saxon system. Taiwan distinguishes between policeman who carry on police work, and policeman who are just administrative police.

What defines policing as a task? Jeff answered that the literature says three things: law enforcement, maintenance of public order, and provision of services. The police do a lot of things that are neither of the first two, Jeff said, such as answering questions or holding documents, for example.

Jeff's project was studying substations, your friendly neighborhood police office. The system in Taiwan is centrally organized. The national policy agency oversees departments in each county, underneath that are police precincts, and then finally, substations. Substations are where calls get routed to, and people are sent out to respond to citizen problems. Such people are classified as administrative policemen: thirty to forty to a substation, probably all men, females being a rarity at the moment. These policemen are the lowest ranking members of the police bureaucracy.

The system was created under the Japanese and has persisted through two very different regime changes, Jeff said. It's "completely entrenched," the substations having survived two attempts to get rid of them and create a more centralized system.

"So it's not a Qing Dynasty system," Jerome Keating interjected. "Absolutely not," averred Jeff. The Japanese "created the prototype for East Asian policing," Jeff stated. "This looks just like what they have in China now," Jeff said. "When the Chinese government decided to create a police in 1980 -- because it wasn't working to just not have any police -- they basically used this system." As we all erupted into laughter at the thought of China without police, Jerome asked where the system came from. The Japanese sent people out to survey all the police systems of the world during the Meiji period, and ended up copying the French and the Germans. They did make one "decisive difference" between the French and the Japanese system: the Japanese attached the local police to the household registration system. It was that act that defines East Asian policing. "The census system is the means by which the central government keeps tabs on every citizen," Jeff explained.

Where did that system come from? It seems that the household registration is modeled on colonial Hong Kong, according to a recent dissertation out of Chicago, Jeff said. The Japanese used a European colonial system in their own domestic governance. Since Taiwan was a colony, it made perfect sense to implement that system. It still remains in place, though it is much less intense.

The KMT left the system intact, and brought in new officers to oversee the junior policemen in the substations. The famous bao jia system actually was eliminated by the Japanese during the war in favor of another system that would bring everyone into the war effort more intensively. The only change the KMT made was to introduce a system of individual police beats, modeled on the American system. In this system the individual policeman is responsible for two blocks. "Those are his people -- he has their census records in his locker," Jeff described it. He is supposed to go visit them once a year and updated the records. If the policeman has to get his quota of arrests, he goes to the jurisdiction next door -- "you never want to disturb things in your own area," Jeff said with a laugh. When they discover a brothel or a chop shop in an area, the policemen who controls it is punished, Jeff said, since he is responsible for knowing everything about his district, including who the troublemakers are. "You can see the intimate relationships that might arise in such a situation," Jeff noted.

Policing is about administering populations at this very intense level, Jeff noted. He then asked us: how many people have ever had someone knock on their door to update the census records? Everyone chorused in the affirmative. How often does that happen? Not often. Jeff said that it had happened once in five years. In my own case it hasn't happened since I returned to Taiwan four years ago. Jeff said that every day the policeman is supposed to get two to three hours to update his records. However, in his three years of going around with the police, he went out once to update census records. Every year the police just copy last year's reports, and forward them upward. What this shows, Jeff observed, is that there is a huge divergence between what the police are supposed to be doing and what they are actually doing.

What do the police do? The police hun which Jeff translates as "hustling." "You get through the day," he said with a laugh. Several of us objected that hun meant to idle, to goof off, but Jeff said that they hun like the hsiao hun hun, the local hustlers. Understanding dawned.

Taiwanese substation policemen live a very difficult life, Jeff said, stressing the word "very." They live at the police station. They have a bunk in the back room and are on duty for 60 hours a week, minimum, 12-14 hour shifts separated by 8 hours of down time. If paperwork doesn't get done on shift, it must be done on the down time. The shift rotates around the clock and is not fixed as it might be in the States where long periods of night duty alternate with long periods of day duty. Jeff does not know why the system is that way, but observed that under such a schedule it is impossible for a policeman to have a normal life. You can't maintain relationships with the police unless you mimic that schedule, Jeff said, hinting at how physically wearing his work must have been. "You're on call all the time and never sleep. I got sick -- it's a physically horrendous schedule."

The policemen have several jobs. First, they have to update the census records. Second, they have to take care of the "Special Projects" invented by politicians, like crackdowns on drunk driving or street vendors in a certain area. How many of these special projects are there in force at the moment in Taipei county? Two hundred. "So there are two hundred things they are supposed to be doing especially intensely," he said, laughing. On top of that the police have to deal with the stuff of citizen complaints -- traffic accidents, crimes, etc.

In answer to a question, Jeff estimates that 50,000 of the 80,000 employees of the police agency are administrative policemen out doing this job. Originally there had been 50,000 civil police and 10,000 special police under martial law, but at the end of martial law, when the military was removed from police work, the police were expanded by 30,000 riot police. Under the old system there were about 50 serious crimes that fell under jurisdiction of the military police, including such crimes as murder and gangsterism, and military prosecutors thus had authority over the civil police.

Linda Arrigo pointed out that actually in 1990 and 1991 there had been an organization called Human Rights in the Police. The policemen had formed their own human rights organization because they were so abused by their political masters. Linda said that it had disappeared quickly, though. Jeff added that there had been another movement three years ago to start a police union, but it disappeared as well. The issue was the same, Jeff said. The police want to be a professional, civil police force outside of political influence, Jeff said, and there have been some very interesting movements.

The suicide rate among policemen, which is very high, became the topic of the next question, but Jeff did not have the statistics at hand. Someone then asked about the mainlander-Taiwanese issues in the police force. Jeff did his work in Taipei county, and he said that everyone spoke Taiwanese all the time, and thus, it wasn't clear who was who. Many people claimed affiliation with the KMT, he added, though they were Taiwanese. Aborigines are well represented in the police force, said Jeff, probably more so proportionally. One of the questioners again raised the problem of ethnicity, saying that locals do not want to be policemen because of the "glass ceiling" beyond which Taiwanese cannot rise. In the last few years Jeff responded, the top ranking positions have been closed to mainlanders. Things are "really confused" in the top levels, he said, referring to the ethnic issue.

Since the job has low social status, why do people become policemen? Basically, Jeff said with a grin, they told him because "they had failed their test," a reference to Taiwan's brutal testing system.

How to deal with the police? As Jeff described the process, if you call 119, the call goes to the county police station, and then they call up the substation front desk. The desk checks the duty roster, where there is a policeman assigned to patrol. Every call that comes into the substation is that guy's problem -- from beginning to end, that policeman has to see that case through. Either the case is resolved by mediation by the police, or it is transferred to the prosecutor's office, which happens if it is at all significant, within 24 hours. The police don't get involved in serious cases, Jeff said as an aside.

The patrol officer gets his call on the radio, and they should show up at your house in a few minutes and deal with your problem. "And they deal with it by making a report," Jeff said, grinning. "They rush to the scene of the crime and then write a report," he described, to general laughter.

After they write a report, they have a book with a sheet with receipts in three colors. The blue sheet should be yours. If they don't do this, Jeff said, you should take issue. As everyone who lives in Taiwan knows, the police "eat cases," make them disappear by losing or not doing the paperwork. The receipt system was introduced to help put a stop to this.

But if the cop won't issue you a blue receipt, what do you do? You pull out your cellphone and start riffling through your acquaintance network. You call your li chang or your lin chang, your borough or neighborhood chief, or any politician beholden to you, and tell him come to your address and argue with the cop, even if it is three in the morning. Their role is to get you the receipt -- or maybe not, Jeff said with a laugh -- depending on what you want out of the case.

Jeff pointed out that what this really means is that if you open a business that deals regularly with the police, you have to cultivate a close relationship with your local politicians so that you can use them to get out of bed anytime night or day to help you mediate your relationships with the police. "Using the civil bureaucracy in Taiwan is a political act," Jeff said, gesturing dramatically. "You have to cultivate relationships with politicians to get the juice to use what is supposed to be the autonomous civil bureaucracy."

This implies that the rule of law is not in effect, yet the rule of law is the basis of democracy. Jeff pointed out that you must have some kind of ideal of an encompassing civil order that is not on the table of political contestation, that in turns contains and mediates political struggles.

"You have to recognize that the policeman himself is just a pawn in this much larger political game," Jeff said. The policeman have no particular stake in the theft of your motorcycle, but somewhere above their heads is "some idiot who has said that if the crime rate goes up, I will resign." There is no way to effectively decrease the scooter theft rate, and no way to increase the recovery rate. The only way to influence the crime rate short of a miracle, is to influence the crime statistics. These become "very real political pressures," he explained, on the local substation commanders. "If your substation reports more than 15 motorcycles stolen this month, you are not getting a promotion." Essentially, Jeff said, laughing, this becomes "you have 15 motorcycle theft reports -- use them wisely."

This is a structural problem of the way the police get influenced by political forces. The police must constantly mediate between their superiors -- politicians, police commanders, and citizens.

Jeff offered another "ethnographic nugget." Usually people report cases by going into the police station in person, bringing with them family, friends, local politicians, people who know the substation commander, and so forth. The whole guanxi (connection) network is used. Thus, if you know that you are going to be at the police station a lot, you have a vested interest in maintaining a stable of relationships with important people. That's local politics in a nutshell, he said. "Black gold at the micro level."

What patrolmen are actually doing is trying to survive at this intersection of the formal policing system and informal political economy, Jeff said. Linda Arrigo then noted that policeman have to spend a lot of time with soothing people, with handling relationships, with paying people off. "Absolutely," Jeff agreed. "Graft is a structural problem. The substation policemen have no way to opt out of the system."

Jeff noted that the policemen he talked to said corruption has gotten worse since the end of martial law. The authoritarian system was stable, he said, but with the advent of democracy, lines of authority are less clear. He also said that the policeman told him the police have become more politicized as well.

As a scholar Jeff wanted to know why the police behave this way. He offered two possible ways to think about it. One way explained police behavior in terms of the cultural patterns of institutional behavior in Chinese society. The other, he explained, was the historical development of institutions in the society, to look at the cultural political context in which they evolved, which he said that it was a more productive way to think about the issue.

Questions began. Did you have trouble publishing in Taiwan? "I'm kind of waiting to get into trouble," he answered, laughing. Media and the police? Jeff didn't research that topic, though he said that the police are interested in the question of their relationship with the media. In the course of the discussion a fascinating incident was revealed: Jeff had been slated to present at a conference on the police in Beijing, and had been wiped off the schedule and accused of being pro-independence. Another highly intelligent questioner asked about cross district crimes, such as car theft and kidnapping scams. "These require a national coordination effort -- how does national policy handle this? How does it filter down?" Jeff answered that the criminal investigation bureaucracy handles this, not the administrative police. "Substation policemen are not about solving crimes," Jeff explained. They call the criminal investigators when they encounter a serious crime. There's a gap in the bureaucracy between the local police and the criminal investigators. The latter, Jeff added, is not very corrupt and are sincere in their attempt to solve crime. What is the Control Yuan's role in all this? Jeff answered that the question was fascinating -- five divisions of government, one of which is "control." How is that not enforcement? One listener responded tartly that it wasn't control because the Control Yuan hadn't done anything for fifty years.

The conversation then turned to the phenomenon of organized crime, and general discussion ensued of its social functions and behavior in Taiwan, Korea, and elsewhere.

The presentation was absolutely wonderful, jam-packed with information and insights. I look forward to Jeff's book, and to further wonderful presentations from the crowd at Swenson's on Saturday morning.

See you next time!

City of Swallows Art Exhibition


Mark Harrison alerted me to this interesting art exhibition in Taipei, City of Swallows.

City of Swallows is a contemporary art exhibition. It connects several sites on Chung-shan North Road which are loaded with traces of migration, post/colonial histories and cultural memories. The exhibition attempts to represent and reflect on the demographic, social and cultural changes made by recent influx of immigrants, the interaction between the historical settlers and the new immigrants; how they look at each other, and how the social and cultural changes brought by all immigrants are producing a rich and diverse new Taiwan colour. The exhibition invites eight excellent artists from Taiwan and Hong Kong who have been concerned with social and cultural development on global scale. From the perspective of visual art, film-making or architecture and town planning, their art responds to the phenomenon of recent migration and multi-layered post/colonial histories formulated in the past.

Monday, April 03, 2006

Chinese TV series Features Manchu Conquest of Taiwan

ESWN has a pretty good piece on a bit of Chinese propaganda about how the Manchu Qing Dynasty General Shi Lang "recovered" Taiwan. Yes, he recovered a land that had never been Chinese. There's a long post from a Chinese blog, which does a good job of showing how confused the Chinese are about the situation here and history here....

++++++++++++

2. This will be made use of by the Taiwan independence elements. At the present, mainland China proposes that as long as the principle of One China is upheld, peace and stability can exist across the straits. The Taiwan independence forces want to achieve the goal of separation and they actively create ethnic divisions and denigrate China. Under these circumstances, it is extremely inappropriate to compare mainland China with the Manchurian dynasty and Taiwan with the Zheng family.

(1) This will be used to attack the Chinese policy for Taiwan. Presently, the people of Taiwan only have a fuzzy idea of Chinese policies towards Taiwan, but the history of Shi Lang's pacification of Taiwan is well-known. Psychologists have shown by experiments that people often have extreme psychological reactions to lively and vivid information and therefore create a wrong impression that will increase mutual mistrust. Since the Taiwan independence forces control public opinion, they may use this to suggest that mainland China intends to conquer Taiwan by force, and so the people must not be fooled and they must purchase American weapons to protect themselves.

(2) This will be used to attack Chinese civilization. At presently, the Taiwanese independence forces is promoting the "de-Sinofication" process. Within the textbooks, they list Chinese history after the Ming Dynasty under world history. If we promote Shi Lang every day, the Taiwan independence forces will say that mainland China is still prettifying the history of the Manchurians enslaving the Chinese. "They are overlooking the civilization of the Han and Tang dynasties, but they dwell with great relish on the days of "wearing a pig tail" as slaves. Since Chinese civilization is beyond salvation, we must become independent in order to rid ourselves of this degenerate civilization and enter into the ranks of developed countries such as the United States and Japan." This is benefiting the Japanese ghouls. It is worth mentioning that the mother of Zheng Chenggong is Japanese and he was born in the Japanese history of Nagasaki. The Japanese treat Zheng Chenggong as their national hero, with a famous drama about Zheng Chenggong taking back Taiwan. The fantasy of the Japanese is to treat Zheng Chenggong as their own national hero in order to take over Taiwan. If we denigrate the Zheng family, it would be heaven-sent for the Japanese! They would then link up with the Japanese-loving Taiwan independence elements, and inject more complexities for the Taiwan problem.

Based upon the above, at a critical moment in the twists of cross-strait history, we ought to give up speaking about how Shi Lang took Taiwan back and praising how the Manchurian Qing dynasty unified China. This can only create more distance between Taiwan and mainland China, and isolate the unification proponents in Taiwan.


This is a fascinatingly bad reading of the situation, but interesting nonetheless....

Even the Lamas are fake

Yes, the sad news is true. There's nothing sacred anymore.....

The number of fake Tibetan lamas from China applying to enter Taiwan using forged documents is on the rise, prompting the attention of Taiwan's law enforcement and national security authorities.

Police and security authorities suspect that a number of unlawful organizations in Taiwan have been providing assistance to fake Tibetan lamas in entering Taiwan, taking advantage of a loophole in Taiwan's law enforcement.

Although a majority of Tibetan monks in Taiwan are sincerely devoted to preaching and behaving well, many have been arrested on charges of illegal activities related to fraud, human or drug trafficking and sex offenses, government officials said.

Some lamas conceal their true identity as Chinese agents and engage in subversion here by luring influential figures from the political and business sectors, posing a threat to national security, a national security official pointed out.

The Politics of Fourth Grade: the Cheating Scandal

A couple of months ago my daughter's fourth grade class selected the model students, as they do every year. The last two years the model student had been my daughter, and, being the nicest human being I know, she was the shoo-in for this years election as well. When the teacher, M., wrote her name and several others on the board as candidates, there was an objection: Sheridan had already been picked twice. It just wasn't fair.

The local culture's attitude toward competition is completely schizo. On the one hand, we hear all the time about how competitive the school system is, and that's true in many respects. But on the other, losing is not merely a failure to obtain something, but is regarded as a seriously negative loss of face. How does the system handle that?

In the US we solve the problem of competitive failure being too painful to bear by several strategies -- providing multiple competitions so everyone can win, handing out prizes even for the low finishers, or doing away with competitive frameworks and substituting cooperative games. In every case, regardless of the solution chosen, the principle of victory by merit is assured. Even when the 8th place finisher gets a prize, she is still the eighth place finisher.

Since competitive failure involves a loss of face, it is a problem in Taiwan society, where people go to elaborate lengths to preserve face. In Taiwan it is resolved by keeping the framework of competition -- there is a prize, competing, and a winner -- but eliminating its inner meaning. The "winner" becomes a selected position rather than one given out for merit. For example, at a university I taught at, the Teacher of the Year award was given on a rotating basis so that it was distributed fairly among departments and teachers. The award had no meaning, but the framework was preserved. At the end of the year the teacher received an award and made a speech. Everyone clapped. Hooray!

So my daughter's fourth grade teacher, faced with this objection, swung into action. Immediately he deleted my daughter's name and replaced it with that of the person objecting, HT, the nasty social climber that I have written on before, and another student, L. When the smoke cleared, HT and L had been selected model students.

Life, however, loves irony. A week or two later, after the names of HT and L had been placed on the wall for all to see, and trophies made, HT and L were busted by several students for cheating on the Chinese test.

This caused a mini-crisis. Our school is small and has been part of the community for five decades. Many of the parents went there as well, and they all know each other. Fourth Grade politics are thus adult politics, masked, recapitulating struggles between the parents that date back to their elementary school days. The teacher, M., is lazy and doesn't want to get involved. I think anyone who knows Taiwan can imagine what will happen: nothing.

The situation also brings up another problem, which is the lack of enforcement here. It occurs at every level of society and begins at school. Last year one of my advisees was busted for cheating -- obnoxiously, he had someone sit in on the test for him -- and the school did nothing to him. All he had to do was express remorse and he got off scot-free, although I pushed for him to be expelled (two of the boys were caught that same day being in the girls dorm room after ten -- permanent demerits, again over my protests). Wonder why the cops let the traffic law violators go? Partly because they learned to in fourth grade.

The problems of Taiwan society begin during the socialization process in school. One excellent way to understand how the Beautiful Isle really works is to send your kid to the local elementary school.

Sunday, April 02, 2006

What are our rights as Foreigners in Taiwan?

Linda Arrigo pointed me to this article in the Taipei Times that succintly explains what rights foreigners have in the face of a deportation hearing:

Legislators and government officials yesterday locked horns over whether Immigration Law (入出國及移民法) amendments should require officials to provide a document listing reasons before a foreigner is deported or refused residence.

The Home and Nations Committee yesterday began reviewing amendments to the Immigration Law, but were divided over several articles, prompting the meeting to be cut short and postponed until further negotiations can be held between officials and legislators.

Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) Legislator Hsiao Bi-khim (蕭美琴) said current regulations do not require officials to provide reasons for deporting foreigners and overseas Taiwanese.

Although overseas Taiwanese have Republic of China passports, they do not have a household registration; therefore many of their rights are not protected, Hsiao said.


I'm not going to get into the many controversial deportation cases we've seen over the last few years. But suffice to say that we need a lot more than a document; we need a complete appeals process.

Sunday, April 2, 2006, Taiwan Blog Round Up


Another Sunday gone to wherever Sundays go. I'll be blogging on the meet up in Taipei tomorrow, and hopefully I'll have a summary of Jeff Martin's information-packed presentation on the Taiwan police....in the meantime, the Taiwan blogosphere is crackling with good stuff this week.


If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, what is theft? Over the last month there's been some discussion on the progressive blog DailyKos about mainstream media borrowing from bloggers without crediting them. It looks like there is another case of this at the Taipei Times. Jen at London Calling notes:

Pffff, that's really a lot of words to type... :s Since you've reached this far, I reckon that you have also sensed many of the similarities between my posting on 03/27 and Taipei Times' editorial on 03/30. That's why I was so surprised and kept wondering what could be the reasons behind that. Well, after much analysis and reasoning by deduction when I rested my beautiful head (;oP) on the pillow last night, I thought of three possibilities:

Possibility one: Jen is actually the author of this editorial and she works for Taipei Times. She’s just playing mysterious. And to save time, she expanded her positing on the blog into an editorial as she had to go to a dinner date on Wednesday March 29.

Possibility two: The wise think alike. The author of this editorial and Jen happened to see the same news clip on the same TV channel and felt the urge to express their opinion. They are not only alike in logic but also in their rhetoric and sequence of paragraph structuring.

Possibility three: The author of this editorial saw Jen’s posting on this blog, liked her opinions and decided to “integrate” her ideas into this editorial. But he/she forgot to ask Jen in advance whether she agrees.

Read the whole article, it is hard to disagree, given the many similarities in vocabulary and structure. It's sad, and I hope someone gets disciplined for this. Hard.


Daniel at Suitcasing has been racking up some thoughtful posts lately. Here is one on the common practice of asking students how things have been.

What is going on here? Well, I've talked to a few Taiwanese people about this, why Taiwanese people will say "Nothing special" if you ask them a "What have you done since we last met?" type question - and I believe that a number of things are going on.

Firstly, questions like "How are you?", "How was your week?" are not as straightforward as Americans/British etc people might think. Indeed, there is enough difference between American and British English that I was very confused the first time I worked in the US. People would walk up and ask me things like, "Hi! What you doing?" when I was taking a break, and I would reply, a little nervously, "Nothing"...

A question like "How has your week been?" could surely be answered in dozens of ways, and only a few would "sound right" to a native English speaker. What I think I mean by this is "What was the general character of your week, and if it was different to usual tell me why, but if it wasn't, tell me about something fun and unusual you did during it".

Secondly, there is a belief created from textbooks that "How are you?" should always be answered by, "I'm fine". Clearly, someone long ago confused the most standard response with the only response, and now a billion + people will always say "I'm fine" (In China, it's even worse - "I'm fine thank you, and you"?). Equally, however, there is a range of normal, acceptable responses to "How are you?", especially between relative strangers, and these are perhaps not obvious until they're explained to you.


I do this too, of course. But my advantage is that unlike you guys teaching adult students in bushibans, I can fail the ones that don't answer. Hehehehehehe.


Cold Goat Eyes describes a rant by one of his students, from Japan, about life in Taiwan. And then muses:

Anyway, it was quite a monologue. You should have seen it. Ever since, I have been trying to work out how, exactly, I feel about Taiwan myself, and the truth is that I dont really know yet. I have been here a year and a half, and I still have yet to get a grasp on my true feelings. Back in the UK, I was exactly like her. I would spend dark evenings spitting venonously and inebriatingly at the fucking weather, the corrupt government, the choking, stifling rules and the small-mindedness of the British. I would take trips abroad whenever I got the oppourtunity and I would dread the day when I had to catch a flight back home to stoop beneath the thick low sky and mope about in the drizzling pissing rain. All I know is, that to a drapetomaniac like me, Taiwan is better than the UK in many ways.

The Taipei Kid finds an error:

Tammy Bruce's latest book, The New American Revolution, states that "while Sri Lankans were worrying about living in tents during the monsoon season, Clinton jet-setted to Taipei and the Kelly & Walsh bookstore where it's reported he signed five hundred copies of his biography."

There is no Kelly & Walsh bookstore in Taipei.


Actually, Clinton did sign hundreds of copies of his autobiography in a Taipei bookstore...in 2005. President Clinton was made the UN's Tsunami Rep shortly after the disaster.


The Foreigner on Formosa had some great stuff this week. Here he looks at China's version of the East Asian Co-Prosperity Sphere the Greater China Commonwealth.

Read the papers late last night, and saw that the China Post editorialists were proposing an international "Chinese Commonwealth" based on the model of the British Commonwealth. Members would presumably have to have large populations of ethnic Chinese, so places like Singapore and Malaysia might be eligible, along with Taiwan and Communist China. The editorialists have in mind a friendly fraternal organization, and who could possibly object to an innocent little thing like that? Let's hear them out:

This idea has been floated for years. There was a pro-KMT scholar who made a point of flying to Taiwan every year to tell the island how great a commonwealth with China would be.


The Foreigner had another set of great comments on the Affair of the Statues.

There are a few other arguments I've heard in favor of keeping the statues, but I'll have to discuss them in some other post some other time. What we CAN expect is that the KMT will to fight to the last to protect its symbols from Taiwan's independence parties. As I've outlined, I think they'll lose the historical battle as democracy entrenches itself further in Taiwan. But what if democracy doesn't grow stronger? What if the KMT embraces the Chinese Communists, and they manage to pull the country into Beijing's orbit? What would happen to the statues in Chinese Vichy?

I suspect that their fate would be EXACTLY THE SAME. Communists can be relied upon to twist arms to remove images of men who are symbols of resistance to their rule. Statues of such men might someday inspire men to rebel, and that cannot be permitted. Americans may tolerate Confederate monuments on Southern soil, but the Communist Party of China is not nearly so magnanimous.

Given the recent crop of KMT leaders, I don't see the modern KMT offering anything more than token resistance, either. The KMT's recent behavior suggests that they're perfectly willing to sell their souls and jettison their most beloved symbols in order to curry favor with the Communist Party of China. I offer this as but one example.

Ironic, isn't it? When the independence parties want Chiang Kai-Shek statues removed, the KMT deride it as an act of historical vandalism. But should the Communist party of China ever call for their removal, watch how swiftly the KMT hail the move as a pragmatic act of reconciliation!



It was recently announced that Chiang Kai-shek's diaries will be made available. Why is it that I feel they are bound to be more literary invention than historical reality? Jerome Keating has the nod:

On March 31, Stanford University’s Hoover Institution will begin to make its collection of the Chiang Kai-shek diaries available for historical research. The diaries provided first will be those that cover the years 1917 to 1931. These diaries of Chiang Kai-shek as well as later ones of his son Chiang Ching-kuo also on loan to the Institution will unquestionably provide a rich treasure trove to explore. However they will also pose a tremendous challenge to historians and researchers of Chinese history.

There is no question that the diaries will provide an abundant source of much wanted information; anyone interested in the history of modern China and Taiwan will look forward to the insights and perspective they will provide into the happenings and personalities of those tumultuous times.

Yet after the immediate exaltation of knowing that they are available there follows the realization of the difficulties to be encountered in accurately interpreting them. In a variety of ways, diaries always have a secret side of what they do and what they do not reveal.

The fact that Chiang Kai-shek let it be known as early as 1950 that he wanted them preserved indicates they will present how he wanted to be remembered. We are also told that the diaries will be further edited by current family members. Certain names and details will only be available in 2035. While this could be expected for privacy reasons, it does raise the question of how much privacy is needs to be protected especially in matters that happened over fifty years ago where most if not all of the participants are now deceased.


Edited by the family with many details not released? Jerome told me that an American scholar with a long history of tight links to the KMT will be in charge of the project. Right. It will be about as balanced as the media guide for a college football team.


One sad event this week was the exit of a legislator from the DPP, who left with an attack on party politics in Taiwan. Lin Wei-chou's egotistical quitting of the DPP did win plaudits from some quarters. Mutant Frog writes:

United States partisan politics may not have quite yet reached this level of clownishness, but it’s close enough so that I’m disgusted with the whole business. Therefore, I am swearing an oath-if any major partisan politician running in elections for which I am eligible resigns from their party and severs all financial and organizational ties with the party, I will vote for you. I don’t care which party it is that you are leaveing, I don’t care how you feel about the Iraq War, or Medicare, or abortion, or school lunches, or even if you’re a holocaust denyer or a convicted rapist. If you follow the brave lead of Lin Wuei-chou in Taiwan, and tell the Washington based political party establishment to go fuck itself, I, who am not, never have been, and never will be a registered member of any political party, will vote for you.

There's nothing brave about Lin Wei-chou. He is just an egotistical never-was who decided to validate his own self-image by attacking Taiwan's political system. This kind of self-absorbed tirade does nothing for Taiwan—and any assault on the political system simply aids the KMT and China, who benefit from less democracy (explain how Taiwan benefits from having fewer members in parliament from the pro-democracy party?) This is not a revelation, it is simply immaturity, squared -- adults live humbly for causes, adolescents die gloriously for them. Which one is Mr. Lin? What Taiwan needs is people who are positive, not negative, about politics and democracy, to step up and work for the good of the nation. Apparently this legislator isn’t, since his ego was validated by trashing the system. Good riddance, I say, but a sad leave-taking all the same. David at jujuflop also supported Lin, saying he had told it like it is:

I don’t think you’ll find many people disagreeing with his sentiments there. Given that he’s talking common sense, I confidently predict he won’t be reelected in next years legislative elections.

I'll bet both of you a beer that within one year of this writing, Mr Lin joins the KMT.


David on Formosa rounds up a passel of good posts on English Teaching.

There have been a few interesting blogs about English teaching in Taiwan recently. I want to post a few links and comments about them.

At Forumosa ImaniOU laments that no matter how well qualified or experienced you are its tough finding a job in Taiwan if you are black. Doubting to shuo further explored the issue in his post on Non-racist Recruiting. I made some comments there about discrimination against people who aren't from North America. Doubting to shuo then posted some more comments on this issue:

Go read it!


Jason at Wandering to Tamshui blogs on Ghost Money and its economic impact:

What better way to celebrate the return of fresh spring air, cherry blossoms, and horrendous baseball to DC than with a post on Taiwan's spirit money industry? (Yeah, OK, besides appearing at the KMT's U.S. "embassy" here heavily inebriated and sans pants)

A very informative article, don't miss it!


Pinyin News has the lowdown on an important new Chinese character teaching method:

One of Taiwan’s trashy TV variety shows has found a new use for zhuyin fuhao: making a game out of men trying to read zhuyin pasted on the bodies of bouncing, gyrating, bikini-clad models.

This particular segment of the show is called “là mèi zhèngyīn bān” (spicy girls pronunciation class / 辣妹正音班).


Mark, I think the interests of science demand that you try for a spot on the show. Make that sacrifice for knowledge!


Taiwanonymous explains the Asian Sign of Picture Taking:

The verb is bi3 (比), which means to gesture with the hand. That which is gestured is ya (or yeah), which is a declaration of how happy one is or how unbelievably cool the picture will be. The "yeah!" should be exclaimed as if you were an excited but quiet ten-year-old who just learned that he won an award for coolness. It is possible to make a V with your fingers without saying "yeah," but it is not recommended. What do you mean "it's too hard"? Come on, even a baby can do it. Look, the baby is shaming you with his effortless mastery of the victory sign.


Big Ell is starting a new feature called 7 Days Later for news that nearly died of neglect:

I am starting another feature here at Big Ell's Blog called, '7 Days Later.' I am going to try and post about the most interesting stories that I find during the week pertaining to Taiwan. These will be stories that fly under the radar in the Taiwan blogosphere. These stories don't warrant a full post but are stories that need to be told. I also hope to post once a week, but probably won't.

Traveling around Taiwan with GPS, by Joseph Chen, always has excellent posts of local interest. Here he discusses the mangrove forest outside of Taipei, which I had no idea existed.

I really like the mangrove forest park along the MRT line stretching between Tamsui and Zhuwei (竹圍). There are dedicated paths for people on bicycle or by foot so you can really get very close to observe the ecosystem of the preserved mangrove.

The best starting point, however, is from the Hong Shulin MRT Station (紅樹林). Within just a few minutes' walk, you are into the forest.

Watch out closely along the coastal path lining with patches of mangrove. There are lots of fiddler crabs and mudskippers everywhere on the sandy areas. If you are lucky, you may even see a couple of sea birds taking showers by the river.

Amazing. I'll have to do that one of these days.


I've often noted that in conservative Christian writing, the word invariably found nearest to God is me. Here is a missionary woman in Taiwan for whom no amount of me-centeredness is too great: God fixes my refigerator....

Then I thought, well maybe it can be fixed. So, then I worried about how to find a handyman to fix my fridge. I worried about how much that would cost. I worried about how long that would take. I worried about how messy the inside of the fridge was and how embarrssing it would be to let some outsider see it in such a mess.

All of this worry raced into my heart and filled my mind. Then, I came to my study and just prayed a simple prayer, "Lord, can you fix my fridge? I don't have the means to deal with this right now. I need to you take care of this."

I kept checking the non-working fridge every five minutes for about an hour. Still no cold air. I talked to some Taiwanese friends about how to find a handyman. I even searched online for the approximate costs of new fridges and what to look for when buying a new one. I still had a heart that was beating faster than normal and a blood pressure probably higher than it should have been.

I was on my out the door to go ask the security guard downstairs for help in locating a handyman when I stopped by the fridge for one last check. I opened the door to the freezer, peeked inside, and . . . the air came back on!

After over one hour of my frozen foods starting to defrost, my fridge came back on. It was fixed. And a week later is still running like normal. Praise the Lord! He fixed my refridgerator. He answered my cry for help. He cares for me!


The fascinating thing is that people who think that the Creator of 250 billion galaxies, each with 50 billion stars, stopped by to fix their personal refrigerator often complain that atheists are arrogant. There is only one antidote for garbage like this:

“The total amount of suffering per year in the natural world is beyond all decent contemplation. During the minute that it takes me to compose this sentence, thousands of animals are being eaten alive, many others are running for their lives, whimpering with fear, others are slowly being devoured from within by rasping parasites, thousands of all kinds are dying of starvation, thirst, and disease. It must be so. If there ever is a time of plenty, this very fact will automatically lead to an increase in the population until the natural state of starvation and misery is restored. In a universe of electrons and selfish genes, blind physical forces and genetic replication, some people are going to get hurt, other people are going to get lucky, and you won't find any rhyme or reason in it, nor any justice. The universe that we observe has precisely the properties we should expect if there is, at bottom, no design, no purpose, no evil, no good, nothing but pitiless indifference.” (Richard Dawkins, Sci. Am. 11/95)
Just think: while God was fixing her fridge, thousands upon thousands of human children were suffering slow death by starvation all over the world. It's good to know God has priorities....meanwhile for those of you who prefer your religion seasoned with intelligence and no small amount of wit, Taiwan blogger FideCogitActio offers a mix of brainy posts on faith and a joke or two:

"A man was auditioning for an anchorman job at a leading news network. The producers were happy with him, he spoke clearly, looked good, sounded intellligent. But towards the end of the audition he started winking and smirking and twitching.

"Are you okay?" the TV guys asked. Worried now. "You were doing great until you, uh, started twitching and winking like that."

Oh don't worry," said the anchorman. "It's a small nerve disorder of mine. It's easily treated with a packet of aspirin."

"Really?" asked the news guys.

"Yeah, let me show you," said the anchorman. "I've always got some aspirin with me if this starts up." He reached into his pockets but pulled out packet after packet of condoms. Still looking for the aspirin, the anchorman now had a little pile of condoms on the table.

"Ahem," said the news guys. "I'm afraid we can't hire a... womanizer. We have a good reputation."

"I resent that" yelled the anchorman. "I am a faithful husband, been married twenty years. I'm no womanizer."

"Well how do you explain all the condoms?" they asked.

"Have YOU ever gone into a drug store winking and smirking asking for a pack of aspirin?"


Strange Foreigner blogs on Taiwan culture and alternative medicine:

People say Taiwanese people ain't got no culture. Alls I'm sayin' is, when your gf's getting blood sucked out of her back by a Chinese doctor and there's a gangster with his head on fire next to her; when there's a kungfu master just outside the door whippin' out the mad fan moves, when you're sitting around with said kungfu master drinkin' oolong tea and watchin' 70s kungfu movies while listenin' to "Everybody was kungfu fighting" and your local Chinese doctor is carrying down a business handed to him from generations upon generations of Chinese doctors before him; when you start to meet these people and have these experiences, that's when you start to have to admit that maybe, just maybe, Taiwan and Taiwanese people have a culture beyond "I know how to make a profit by cutting production costs".

Damn right! They also know how to make a profit by lowering quality!


Anarchy in Taiwan, with hard-driven posts bursting with righteous energy, has been blogging on the emerging death squad/security state in the Philippines. But he also posts on the woes of Filipino workers in Taiwan:

The migrants at Wang's Formosa Plastics compound in Mai Liao have been fighting hard in their struggle for the wages guaranteed to them on paper, but skimmed off by FPG and their corrupt brokers. Actually, extorted is probably a better description. On March 16th, Lebria, Lennon Wang from the Chinese Federation of Labor, and representatives from the Migrante Sectoral Party, Asia Pacific Migrants Mission and Taiwan Migrants Forum met with workers and FPG management on Friday March 16th to discuss the workers' demands after a two day strike of Filipino and Thai workers at the plant on March 13 and 14.

At the moment there is a large strike going on in Kaohsiung too....


Doubting to shuo finds writes a great new Chinese number conversion tool.

The primary purpose of this tool is to help foreigners reading online newspapers, who come across big numbers such as 百萬 or 120億. Every number to the left of a 萬 (万) or an 億 (亿) will be interpreted as a number. At this point, Chinese conventions for and omitting trailing s, s, and s are supported, but still in testing. There also is support for a wide variety of input that I haven’t seen in other similar Chinese math tools, though. Here are some examples:...

I think the tool is pretty much what you’d expect. If see buggy behavior, let me know. Tell me what kinds of numbers you come across that are inconvenient to convert and I’ll see if I can add support for them into the tool. Suggestions are welcome.



Western teachers have visa runs, overseas Chinese have conscription runs...

Just came back from a conscription run. My 4 months was up. This trip was pretty interesting, I met new people on this trip. Others that were just like me, overseas Chinese that had to leave every 4 months. So it is possible to do this afterall.

If you have a Taiwanese passport and would like to come back to Taiwan:
1. Stay in a foreign country for longer than 4 years, Or if you hold a permanent residence of another country.
2. Apply for an Overseas Chinese Identification certificate with the OCAC (Overseas Chinese Affairs Commission).
3. Just make sure you leave every 4 months during your stay in Taiwan. Before you can exit Taiwan, remember to get an exit permit (a stamp) on your passport with the Ministry of Interior.

And get this, all you have to do is LEAVE the country...you don't have to enter another country. Yup, thats right. All you have to do is leave Taiwan. You can go to the beautiful international waters! OR go to any airport of your choice WITHOUT entering through immigrations. Yes, thats right, you can just go to HK airport, not go through immigrations and just catch the next plane back to Taiwan! Guess the Taiwan gov just wanted to give us a reason to be able to be excused from the military...



MYSTERIES: The perennial fascination with Hitler in Taiwan was the topic of a pic from Lost in Translation:



How are the Nazi party and the hand signs related? Your guess....

Meanwhile Jason at Wandering to Tamshui blogs on the mysterious commercial involving a foreigner, an aboriginal girl, and a laptop: Abo marketing a-go-go!



HUMOR: Karl at Chewin' in the Chung notes:

It's lunch hour here at the office, and I think I'll go eat at a restaurant near my company. Ya know, the food here in Taiwan is pretty good, but we just don't get the kind of delicious Chinese food that can be found in Western countries. Some of my favorites that I really miss are:

Red date silk tube-shaped container steams frog
or
Chicken ear an ear jade liquid geng
or
Benumbed hot Huang fries belly silk

or my all-time favorite snack...

Cowboy Leg Beautiful Pole


Whoa! I Take that last one back! I have never had anything to do with any cowboy's beautiful pole!



SHORTS: Patrick blogs on our visit to Ta-ken: Hubbub at the Daken hub. Mind of Mike feels his way through the recent quake. Gordon Graham at Broken Bulbs notes that Google is opening an R&D facility here. Feli is off to India, my favorite place to travel in. Bring back lots of pics! Kat has started a new blog on cooking in southern Taiwan (what's the difference? More betel nut?). Taiwan Tiger is back after a six month hiatus! And taking the east coast by train. Congratulations to Still That Same Girl From the Bronx....she's expecting! Don't miss the podcasting at Getting a Leg Up, The Bluesman's Killing Floor, Misadventures in Taiwan, Ugly Expat, The Formosa Diaries, and What's Up in Taiwan. As always, great photos at 35togo, Unplugged, the forgetful's photo gallery, the forgetful's photo gallery, amateur commune, andres, Clarke vs Matt, Cat Piano, T_C at Fotolog, battphotos, Fotologging Taiwan, Photoactionboy, leftmind, MaMaHuHu, Everything Visible is Empty, Roger in Taiwan, Love Songs (Are for Losers), Photoblogging Taiwan, Eight Diagrams, Tagging Taichung, Finding the Rabbit, and The New Hampshire Bushman in Taiwan and The World. Also, Waiguoren Project wants your stories.



NEW BLOGS ON THE ROLL
:
Scenes
Words
Wonton Woman



ADDED: New Category for Taiwan Video blog pages. If you have one, send me a link



Jen at London Calling Copied by Taipei Times?

I've rounded this up in the upcoming Sunday Round Up, but it deserves a post of its own. There have been some cases of the mainstream media stealing from bloggers in the US. Did Jen turn one up here? It seems pretty close:

Jen said, "...Regrettably, I think some of the news crew may well enjoy a promising career in producing the Taiwan version of American idols, if they decide not to follow the political beat." --> implying that the political news in Taiwan were presented like entertainment news.

Taipei Times said, "... magnification of Ma, ... into a myth, and the migration of the country's political scene into the realm of the entertainment sector."
Jen said, "...While behaving unsophisticated is one thing, acting completely stupid is really way over the limit a TV audience can bear."

Taipei Times said, "... Behaving unprofessionally is one thing, but acting like groupies oversteps the limit."


Go read the whole thing. I sure hope this isn't what it looks like......

Taitung Election Follies II: Corruption wins By-Election

One fascinating thing about voters in Taiwan is their utter hypocrisy. On one hand you will hear people complain constantly about the high level of corruption and the poor state of governance. Yet, in fair elections, the public consistently returns corrupt politicians to office. Stop me before I kill again! seems to be the message voters are sending.

The most recent example of this is the by-election for Taitung County Commissioner. The Taipei Times gives the basic story:

Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) candidate Kuang Li-chen (鄺麗貞) yesterday won the Taitung County Commissioner by-election.

Kuang is the ex-wife of Wu Chun-li (吳俊立), a KMT member who was elected county commissioner last December, but was then suspended from his post immediately upon assuming office because of a corruption conviction.

Wu then divorced his wife, Kuang, in an attempt to sidestep restrictions preventing a commissioner from selecting a relative or spouse as deputy. Kuang then joined the KMT to run for the Taitung post.

Kuang received 42,578 votes in yesterday's poll, triumphing over three independent candidates by a large margin. Former Taitung deputy commissioner Liu Chuan-hao (劉櫂豪) received 19,110 ballots, former Taitung mayor Lai Koon-cheng (賴坤成) received 4,765 votes and Aboriginal candidate Lofa (羅法尼耀學海) secured 966 votes.


Despite the corruption conviction, KMT Chairman Ma Ying-jeou, fresh from a trip to the US, was down in Taitung mustering the faithful for the KMT's candidate:

Although Wu's ex-wife and the KMT won back the post, KMT Chairman Ma Ying-jeou (馬英九) has been criticized for going to the county and publicly campaigning for the ex-wife of a man who has been convicted of corruption and vote-buying.

The KMT's connections to gangsterism are ties of longstanding, dating back to the days when organized crime was used to attack political demonstrations and carry out political assassinations abroad.

I blogged on the Taitung election last year. The victory of the corrupt politician's wife by a landslide shows the kind of issues that Taiwan has to overcome before it can have a strong democracy. Apparently voters don't really give a damn about the actual behavior of candidates -- whatever they say -- and support those candidates who obviously have no scruples whatsoever. In a society where access costs money, such a strategy may be quite rational and successful. The way the commissioner gamed the system by having his wife stand for him is the kind of trickery that people admire, not deplore. Fundamentally, voter attitudes have to undergo a profound change before Taiwan will become a stable democracy.

Another interesting aspect of this is how the unending barrage of criticism of President Chen looks in light of the actual behavior of his rival Ma Ying-jeou. Ma and other KMT politicians can attend the weddings held by prominent gangsters, and he can stump for candidates who are clearly corrupt. If Chen had done the same, the media would have been highly critical. Ma's behavior shows that the "New KMT" is still the same old KMT, hanging on to power by selling it, and fighting reform tooth and nail. What does Ma stand for? It's obvious in his support of candidates like this one.

Tihua Street in Taipei


In addition to our visit to the The Museum of Temporary Art, we also had an excellent time on Tihua Street in Taipei, one of the city's most important historical districts, still full of spice and cloth retailers.


I hadn't been there since 2003, and it was great to see all the old shops still there and selling up a storm. If you haven't been there yet, set aside an afternoon and visit. The nearest metro stops all lie along Chungshan N. Rd., so you have to hop in a taxi for an $80 ride to Tihua Street, or catch a bus. Tell the driver you want to go to the Cloth Market, at the south end, so you can experience walking up the entire street.


Tihua Street is not just a great place to hang out, but bulk spices are available at good prices. I picked up a huge bag of oregano, and two large bottles of cumin seed, for $100 each.


I set up a picture page which I hope to add to next month when I am in Taipei again. Enjoy!

Saturday, April 01, 2006

The Museum of Temporary Art

On Friday we rolled into Taipei for the April Swenson's Meet Up. Big crowd today! More on that later.

Meanwhile, on Friday afternoon, in the undoubtedly vain hope of enabling my children to soak up some culture, we took them to a museum. My children protested that they were already Improved, and wanted to do something fun, like murder aliens by the thousand in real-time strategy environments, or break priceless family heirlooms at their grandparents' house. We compromised on an hour at the art museum....



The Museum we chose was, according to the sign at the metro station, the Museum of Temporary Art. We searched in vain for the museums of Semi-Permanent and Permanent Art, thinking the effect on the children would be all the greater. Alas, shutter lag prevented photography of the exhibits at the Museum of Ephemeral Art.


The Museum of Temporary Art is housed in a beautiful Japanese-era building, a former school with lovely old brick walls and wooden floors. The signs in front identify it as the Museum of Contemporary Art (台北當代藝術館), but we knew that those signs had to contain an English error, since the exhibits change frequently and do not last very long.


The old schoolrooms are given over to exhibits, and after careful perusal of the place, objectivity compels me to admit that I would rather have my eyeballs gnawed out by gophers than visit it again. Many of the exhibits stimulate the viewer to speculate on how many relatives the artist must have had on the Board of Trustees to get his work in there. Others look as though the artist is playing a game to see just how mundane an object has to be before he can stop labeling it art. One or two look like the kind of scribbles my daughter makes when the cat is biting her ear. On the plus side, the wooden floors creak in a cool, reassuring way, and the place has great atmosphere. The student volunteers manning the exhibits were not only polite, but often quite decorative as well.

The second floor housed an exhibit of 50 years of Italian fashion, whose complete title must surely have been Fifty Years of Italian Fashion: Clothing Rejected by Betel Nut Girls for Being Too Garish. In addition to the hideous clothing, which looked as though it had been created from the skins of tropical parrots whose genes had been crossed with DNA from the entire insect population of Gautemala, the museum broadcast videos of fashion shows on the walls of the exhibit. Standing there, dumbstruck, I suddenly understood what the phrase "tortured to the brink of insanity" really meant.

All in all, if someone suggests visiting this place, clout them on the head and lock them in a closet until the urge passes. Taipei has plenty of other museums improving for both adults and small children.

INFO: In case sustained bombing has reduced all other Taipei attractions to rubble and you actually want to visit this place, it is located on Chang-An W. Rd about two blocks from Chungshan N. Rd. Adult tickets are NT$50. The nearest metro station is Chungshan (Zhongshan) Station.

UPDATE: Feiren and others (comments below) say it's not so bad. Apparently the rotating exhibitions are sometimes quite good...

Yes it is the Chungshan Stop. And Michael, you should really it another chance. They have had some very cool stuff there in the past--like the 卜湳文明遺跡特展. This was a supposed ancient civilization dug up in Tainan. They created a whole 'dig' artifacts and scholarly monographs to go with it. Great stuff.

You can also combine MOCA with a visit to Spot, Taipei's art house film theater. It's right around the corner on Chungshan just north of Nanking Rd. As you probably know, it is housed in the US Ambassador's old residence. The first floor bookstore is a great place to pick up Taiwanese films.

Also in the area and must visit for people with kids is the Lin Liu-hsin Puppet Theater Museum (http://www.taipeipuppet.com/english/index-menu.html). An excellent historical collection that is very crisply presented. Your kids will learn something about Taiwanese history and maybe also catch a good puppet show.
The puppet museum sounds really great.