This was her only smile during what was obviously a difficult trip for her. But she and the sea and Lanyu were all beautiful...
Another August, another trip out to Lanyu. My son, my man Drew of Taiwan in Cycles, and my bother in spirit Domenic Alonge headed out to experience the beauty of Lanyu (slogan: "A free goat with every pic!"). Pics below the READ MORE line if you can stand more of my favorite island...
Not a promising sky, but at least the sea was calm as we left Houbihu marina in Kenting for Lanyu. In the summer ferries leave from here every day, and the ride is 2.25 hours versus 3 or more from Taitung.
Need money and patriotic validation? Report some corruption.
My son was pretty psyched.
Casting off.
Dom's just happy that rain is far away...
We made it, and attempted to ride around the island, but the rain fell in great 55 gallon barrels, so we retreated back to the BnB. Here's the view from the deck.
I did get this inadvertant selfie from our attempt to ride around, which pretty much captured the mood.
Drew of Taiwan in Cycles with his family. Drew is one of the sharpest observers of Taiwan I know. We talked about politics over beers and cheap Taiwan-style noodle stuff. Food on Lanyu is still largely either pretentious and expensive and inadequately supplied, or cheap oily noodle stuff. At least there's still cheap....
Friday morning looked promising...
Goats wander across the runway...
We took off early, and it soon became clear that the only weather effect we'd have to worry about was sunburn. This was good, because I find circumnavigating Lanyu and taking photos to be very relaxing, and scuba diving and snorkeling and hiking all frightfully energy demanding. Just wanted to sit on the deck and listen to the ocean roll in....
Zeb had his own motorcycle for the ride, so we had tons of fun photo'ing each other.
This fellow in the Freeca there drove slowly along the road, in that position behind the wheel, with his rear door wide open....
Traditional taro fields in the morning sun.
So early, few were up.
We stopped at the breakfast place for mantou.
Puppies and kids were out early playing in the street.
The wind was still lashing the waves over the harbor infrastructure.
Zeb spots a shot. He's got the eye of a photographer.
Dom and Drew, riding the island on bikes, caught up to us at the 7-11 for coffee.
Surf under the lighthouse.
"This is really great, Dad!"
This absolutely beautiful woman from Taichung was cycling the island on her way round Taiwan.
Zeb hunts goats.
Among the surreal rock formations.
Snapping a pic.
A pit stop.
Zeb looks back.
We stopped by this formation to check the tidal pools for life...
...but only a few fry were hanging out...
The goats were busy reproducing too.
Obligatory shot of Zeb + goats.
The imprints of ancient corals...
Battleship rock.
I love this bay with its many moods.
We went down to the Lover's Cave, where I saw this hermit crab struggling over a rock.
Zeb at the arch in the rock.
Constant construction is true on Lanyu just like everywhere else.
We stopped by the traditional boats, where a group was out practicing.
Then headed down the southeast side of the island.
...where I got this panorama. Click on the image to see it in larger sizes.
Zeb hurtles past a rock formation. Actually he is a very safe and conservative driver -- I am the one who drives like a Taiwanese of my generation.
At the nuke waste dump, looking at Little Lanyu.
Hot day, and everyone was resting.
We stopped at the Agricultural Cooperative Supermarket where there is a small wet market in the morning.
Taro and dried flying fish, two island specialties. We had a good chunk of BBQ fatty port from the vendor across the street, to recharge with its lifegiving qualities...
Visitors in enjoy my picture taking...
Of course we hit the grassy field to take some great pictures of green and blue Lanyu.
A group photo. That girl wasn't gonna let a busted leg stop her.
Zeb is lovin' it.
My favorite photo of the trip.
He came over to say hello...
... we retired to the BnB to escape the afternoon heat, and then in the evening went back around the island with Dom. I believe a vacation should have plenty of time devoted to sitting around doing nothing.
Dom mingles with a group of women from China, who discussed the bikini tops and their own bodily attributes with hilarious frankness, thinking we didn't understand.
A roadside souvenir vendor.
As the sun fell, we rounded the southern end of the island to meet Drew and Joyce at Even's mexican cafe near Irraley.
A fisherman was out netting fish...
On the way we stopped at the Lover's Cave. On the way back up the little lane to the parking lot, Zeb and I stopped to get some pics of the large hermit crabs crossing the road. Gradually we realized Dom was not with us. Yep, his scooter had died....
We went up to the top of the road to wait in the gathering dusk, and within 20 minutes our hostel owner appeared with another scooter. Now that's service.
We all met up at Even's place Do Van Wo, which is the exception to the value for money food problem on Lanyu.
As you can see.
The toad can't decide whether to go in...
Then it was back to the hostel...
We went over to the other side of the island, but forgot our sunscreen, and beat a retreat to the west side where we could get sunscreen. Fortunately we ran into Dom and Drew, who loaned us some. We all then decided to hit the old village near the grassy field.
When you look up the word pig in the dictionary, this is the picture you get.
Now that we had slathered ourselves with sunscreen, we were in the shade, of course...
With plenty of critters like this spider...
...and this common lizard.
Zeb helps Kit up the creekbed to the old village.
Dom totters, but never falls.
Lots of life about, if you could but spot it...
...including this huge Golden Orb spider.
My son spotted this harmless snake nosing about the old village.
I went back to the BnB to retire and write my memoirs, while the young folks set off to snorkel and do other things that required youth and energy.
Finally, too soon, we were boarding the boat to Houbihu in Kenting.
Sharing it with friendly people...
Saying good-bye to Lanyu...
...and hello, Taiwan.
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Expensive and pretentious or cheap and oily?
ReplyDeleteMaybe for lunch, it's hard to find much selection. But for dinner everyone knows you find the town near the airport with the barbecue and slightly more bustling "nightlife" (by nightlife I mean the streets are not dead) and you get all sorts of barbecue, with pitchers of beer. It was excellent and cheap.
That's why I used the term "largely". There are a couple of places, like Even's and the ho tsai place down past Imarod with the Chinese wife doing the cooking that produce decent food at acceptable prices.
ReplyDeleteI agree with your "favorite picture"..."OOoohhh the memories you will have !"
ReplyDelete